“In the Western context,” Enos explains, “education is a pathway out of poverty, but, for our ancestral responsibilities, education is a pathway to responsibility. You are being armed with the ability to truly defend Hawaiʻi, and not with an AK-47.”
Fish markets, dim sum stands, and medicinal herbs shops share blocks with trendy boutiques and wine bars. Chinatown’s transformation from a den of prostitutes and drug dealers to a destination for tourists and locals has been slow, but moving. And yet remnants of its seedier history continue to linger.